Which Watches Need a Winder?
If you’re a watch collector, you probably have several watches that you keep on rotation. Some of these watches need a winder to keep them ticking continuously if they’re not worn regularly.
While some horologists say winders are over-glorified luxury goods, others say they’re a practical necessity for automatic watches with complicated complications that require elaborate resetting when not worn.
1. Automatic Watches
An automatic watch is a timepiece that automatically ticks when the wearer moves their wrist. It is powered by a rotating rotor that transfers power to a mainspring and twists it, creating energy. This energy is stored in a power reserve that the watch uses to keep ticking when not worn. This makes it a great option for people who travel or don’t always have their watch with them.
Many people believe that they need a winder to keep their automatic watch ticking, but this isn’t necessarily the case. Whether or not you should buy one depends on the type of watch you have and your lifestyle.
Generally, watches with shorter power reserves need to be winded more frequently. However, some high-end movements have longer power reserves that can be left without being wound in order to maintain their accuracy.
This is because they use more lubricants to reduce friction between components. These lubricants don’t dry out and “gum up” like their natural predecessors.
Therefore, it isn’t necessary to wind these watches often unless you want to preserve their pristine condition and reduce wear on the movement. It’s also worth mentioning that these watches can sometimes lose their accuracy over time so it isn’t a bad idea to get them checked up every once in a while.
Another thing to consider is the quality of the watch winder you purchase. The more expensive winders are likely to be made of better materials and have a better motor. Cheaper winders are often prone to magnetization on your watches, which can cause problems with your movement and decrease its accuracy.
If you’re interested in purchasing a watch winder, it is important to find one that is suitable for your watch collection and is built to last. A low-quality winder can cause more harm than good, so it is best to shop around for a few different models before you make a decision.
2. Mechanical Watches
There are many advantages to owning a mechanical watch, but the biggest is that they run more reliably than quartz or battery-powered watches. While they might be a bit more expensive to buy and own, the payoff is a watch that will last for years if you take care of it properly.
These watches use a tightly wound spring inside the watch that needs to be wound on a regular basis in order for them to work. This is done using a crown (a knob usually on the side of a watch case) or winding key, which is often included with certain watches.
This spring stores energy in the main barrel, which meshes with a precisely-sized geartrain of toothed wheels that terminates in what is called an escapement. The escapement is a part that releases power from the mainspring in a way that keeps the watch accurate.
In addition, the spring is protected by a bridle that disengages it when it reaches maximum tension, preventing it from becoming overwound and losing energy in an instant.
Another important component of a mechanical watch is the balance wheel, which regulates the release of energy from the mainspring and the escapement. Without the delicate balance of these parts working together, the watch would be inaccurate or not functioning at all.
The balance wheel is also what causes the hands of the watch to spin when you set it. This is why it is important to keep the balance wheel free of dirt and dust.
It is also a good idea to clean the crown from any dirt that may have accumulated during normal wear and tear. This is especially important for watches that have a crown-winding mechanism, because the crown can be a breeding ground for dirt and germs that can damage the watch over time.
A watch winder is also a great way to extend the life of your mechanical watches, but there are some things you should keep in mind before you buy one. First, you should look for a winder that is made from quality materials and is stylish enough to complement your collection. Second, you should look for a model that will not disrupt the operation of your watches and is quiet.
3. Watches with Complications
If you have a watch that has a complicated movement, it will need to be wound regularly and reset each time the mainspring is run down. This may not seem like a big deal if your watch only has simple time complications, but once you have a watch with complex perpetual calendar and moon phase complications, it can be a chore to wind it and reset it.
Complications are any features that aren’t the simple display of hours, minutes and seconds. They include things like alarms, chronographs (stopwatches), and automatic winding mechanisms.
Watches with complications can be a great addition to any collection, but they can also make a watch more complicated to use. If you don’t understand how your watch works, you can end up accidentally damaging it.
One of the most common complications is the moon phase, which displays the current phase of the moon from Earth’s perspective. It’s usually done by showing the moon through a modified crescent window on the dial and can even be accompanied with stars and clouds for added effect.
This is a very popular feature on watches that are designed to be worn by astronomers and non-astronomers alike, and it’s often found in more expensive models from top brands. The jump hour is another rare complication that can be a bit quirky, but it’s still a popular choice among collectors and horology enthusiasts.
It’s also possible to have multiple time zones on a watch, which is an excellent addition for those who travel a lot. These watches can tell time from two different time zones, or they can display a third time zone that’s used for special events or other reasons.
While these are some of the most common complications, there are many more that can be found in watches. The most complex are known as “grand complication” watches, which can feature several of these complicated timepieces in one small case.
If you have a complicated watch that you want to keep on your wrist, it’s probably best to get a watch winder. There are plenty of options available, and you can find something that will suit your needs for less than $50 or even less than $100.
4. Watches with Multiple Time Zones
For frequent travelers or those who work in a global environment, a watch that can display multiple time zones is an essential piece of gear. Whether you want to call your mom in Chicago or a client in London, no watch is more practical than one that can tell you the time in multiple locations around the world.
There are two main types of watches that can display a second time zone: dual time watches and GMT watches (which are commonly called “world time” watches after the habit of airline pilots to use them to keep track of Greenwich Mean Time). While world time watches display all 24 time zones simultaneously, dual and GMT watches have more simple designs that are easier to read for the uninitiated.
A dual time watch typically comes with a 12 hour scale and a sub-dial that shows the time in a second time zone. Many luxury brands such as Patek Philippe, Faberge, and Ulysse Nardin offer compelling dual time watches.
The Rolex GMT-Master II is perhaps the most popular example of a dual time watch, and it’s a great choice for those who want to be able to quickly find out the local time in a different location. However, if you’re looking for more time zones, you can also opt for a more advanced world time watch such as the Nomos Zurich Orbis Terrarum.
While the Nomos Orbis Terrarum is not an automatic watch, it’s a very interesting example of a world time watch. Its caliber DUW 5201 is powered by an in-house movement that allows the wearer to easily tell the time in 24 different time zones all at once.
As an added bonus, this complication also uses a transparent dial that rotates as the day progresses. The result is an elegant, stylish watch that can be worn on any wrist.
Another great example of a dual time watch is the Bremont ALT1-Z Zulu, a hefty 48mm tool watch that features a rotating bezel to display both local and international time. While it’s a little large for the average wrist, this is a very useful addition to any collection, and is particularly helpful when you’re flying in and out of various locations throughout the year.
